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One found with joy that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a rough rubble.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.